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Saturday, December 1, 2018
La Palma
Canary Islands
...the adventures begins
We love discovering new places, but hey...what an unexpected wonderful surprise was La Palma!
We almost went there accidentally, after a last moment decision. Best thing ever!
On our entire stay of almost ten days, we never had a moment of dullness. To be honest it's very easy to be excited here!
I
will tell you about our adventures on Santa Cruz de la Palma, about Los
Cancajos, laurel forest of Los Tilos, natural pool of Charco Azul, the
remote magical beach of El Rio, Puerto Naos and about reaching the
peak of Los Muchachos!
Absolutely paradise if you are looking for a safe place with good weather all year round, smiling people and blue sky!
Also
the wild beauty of the most isolated black sand beaches it's almost
unreal. Simply, you're most likely to love this little island on the
Atlantic soon as you see it!
We flyed on La Palma at the end of
the year, we left a cold rainy day behind in England and we arrived to a cyan
sky, a blend of blue and green hard to describe.
We jumped on our rented car and start a magical journey...
First stop - Los Cancajos.
We
booked our accommodation to a beautiful complex called Apartamentos La
Caleta. Nothing too posh or out of range, but truly authentic canarian,
quite and abundant on gorgeous flowers that will spread jasmine like
perfume in the evenings.
The restaurant had a good selection of food and an excellent choice of bakery products, all fresh, all delicious.
Here,
nothing is as good as breakfast on the outside terrace. A strong coffee
aroma, a croissant or a chocolate pancake on the early sunlight. All
with a view to the ocean. The birds were singing too.
Most of the hotels are offering similar conditions, if you want to see more of La Caleta, you can watch this video.
Los
Cancajos is the largest tourist resort on La Palma and offers a good
selection of shops, restaurants, car rental and tourist offices.
There
is a lovely promenade along the coast, spectacular views over the ocean
and a very relaxing atmosphere.
Los Cancajos beach is also beautiful,
with soft black sand and clear calm waters that makes it an excellent
place for snorkeling. Also this is the right place to try some local
fresh fish dishes while enjoying the view.
Santa Cruz De la Palma
it's the capital of the island and one of the most charming cities I've
ever seen. Clean narrowly streets, flowers everywhere, beautiful
buildings and of course the famous traditional balconies of La Palma!
Standing out by the extraordinary carved wood and overlooking to the sea, those balconies are a trademark here.
Excellent combination of art galleries, museums, restaurants and local shops with souvenirs and canarian products.
Wonderful
to visit is the square of clock towers or Plaza de España, the main
meeting point for local celebrations and festivals.
Here, the
16th century church of El Salvador it's a beautiful example of durable
local architecture, as the towers are built with volcanic stone blocks.
We
spent the early Christmas evening around the square and church and I
can honestly tell that there was a very special and sincere welcoming
feeling in the community. Everything was beautifully decorated with
kings and shepherds, with baby Jesus and Maria...there was also a
concert with divine religious music that could be heard.
All
beautiful, but Santa Cruz de La Palma it's so much more...the long
promenade with white and pink flowers, the green hills and the palms,
the magic of the port where I've seen almost every day a different
cruise ship. Fantastic.
There are also few other wonderful
places that I encourage you to see, like Chico and Circo de Marte
theatres, La Palma Naval Museum, La Palma Insular Museum or Santa
Catalina Royal Castle.
Now, Santa Cruz de la Palma wouldn't be
complete without a beautiful beach isn't it? Quite right, this is where
playa Bajamar comes on. Very easy to access from the promenade and
located between Risco de la Concepción Natural Monument and the marina,
this is a very popular, well maintained beach. There are lots of
facilities, parking, coffee shops and restaurants.
We've been
lucky enough to go to this lovely beach on the day when the local drums
band was exercising before the New Year representation.
Imagine about
25-30 drums vibrating on rhythms that would make the stones move!
Absolutely wonderful!
The roads in La Palma are a challenge even
if you are passionate about F1 championship. Very twisty, following the
shape of the island, this roads can take you thru spectacular views that
I couldn't even imagine...after every turn is something else that takes
your breath and so on. Be careful on the signs about falling rocks and
animals (usually rabbits), but don't leave this stop you exploring.
It's
well worth it.
The
green of La Palma it's so profound that we had to stop on countless
occasion just to stare like the kids would stare in the front of a toy
store. There are also so many caves, deep forests, tunnels, endless
banana plantations, stunning flowers in colours that we forgot they are
real.
We've seen so many deep valleys, so deep that we couldn't see the end of them. It's a good remainder of how small we are.
That's
the miracle of La Palma, it's just you and the nature, in the most pure
shapes and forms. Yes, you may be out on the road, but if you look
around you can still see the ocean or the mountains.
As we
thought that it's an absolutely blessing to be able to play with snow
and swim in the ocean on same day, we made our plan for reaching the
highest peak on the island - Roque de los Muchachos at 2426 m altitude.
On
the way to the point where you are above the clouds, I recommend you to
try and visit a unique set of telescopes, including the largest and one
of the most advanced telescope in the world - The Gran Telescopio
CANARIAS (also known as GTC).
La Palma has one of the best night star view and is also an excellent spot for any astronomic observations.
You
may be able to organise a night out to enjoy the stars as you never
seen them before. I guarantee that will brighten up your life and will
make you realise how wonderful this World it's. Try contacting
Observatory of El Roque de los Muchachos for information.
We were
amazed all the way to the peak, passing green hills, barren rocks, pine
forests and some other scenery that looked like a science fiction
movie.
The bright of the snow is glazing everywhere and you can
look at the clouds down, under you. If this doesn't change the way you
see the world, I don't know what else will.
There are footpaths
towards different viewpoints. You are so close to abyss and it's nothing
or very little between you and the greatness of this heights. From time
to time, impressive black birds fly over you on the blue sky.
This
part of La Palma needs more time to discover and the magnitude of
what's around you can leave you many times without a reaction, other
than starring in a attempt to cover and understand what's in front of
you.
You can call this place magical without a doubt. I just know
one day I have to come back here and spend more time looking at the
stars, at the clouds...
Another nice surprise on La Palma it's Los Tilos laurel forest.
A
strong smell of vegetation and earth, lots of lianas hanging everywhere
and again a view to die for. Deep into the forest, after walk passing
tunnels and long hiking trails you can enjoy a beautiful waterfall.
Quite
amazing how in the density of the forest you can hear the water
murmuring like a call. Again, it's worth all the effort even for just
few moments.
I'm normally an enthusiastic type of traveller, happy and grateful
for every new part of the World that I've seen, so you'll understand my
exuberance when I tell you about another very special place of La Palma
- Charco Azul.
After a brief stop in San Andes, a charming city
on the north-east of the island, we finally get close to one of the
"must see" attraction on our list. From the high coast we can see
glimpse of emerald water and hear the ocean waves as well.
Passing
fast between bright coloured flowers, I can't get enough of what's in
front of me. Normally I will stop and gasp with excitement at every
papaya plant, mango or even at butterflies, but not now...this Charco
Azul miracle it's like a magnet.
The sun is up and strong enough
even if it's the end of December and I'm right here, by the side of one
of the most beautiful natural pools! My eyes are trying once again to
memorise all the details and without a second to spare I dip into
turquoise water. At the sides of the pool I can see many large red
spotted crabs lying on the sun.
From time to time, big waves
from the ocean are troubling their peace. Once again, I was embracing
the view around me, feeling grateful that I was able to see all this.
I
absolutely loved La Palma and what I've seen by now, but nothing has
prepared me for the next adventure, where in the middle of nowhere we
got the GPS signal lost.
As we like checking the map and look for
unspoiled places, me and my husband nodded happily when we discover
Playa El Rio (El Rio Muerte). The map shows a local road that could get
us very near this mysterious beach.
So we drive and we drive,
main streets become small, we pass green valleys and we keep descending
the coast according to our map. We stopped from time to time, we get out
of the car and careful look around. Green grass, yellow wild flowers
and lots of cute little lizards. By one side we have the blue ocean, on
the other side we have a sea of green.
By our amazement, it's
doesn't take long for scenery to change. In only short time, when we
really started to doubt that the car can manage the road any longer, we
reach a black rock desert. We have in front a small, or to be more
accurate, a very small road, no tarmac, without any sort of pavement,
just a sort of path near a coast where I closed my eyes while my husband
joked that "we may make it to see the beach" or not! There was no other
way, you could no possible revers on such a multitude of winding
pathways. The GPS was long lost now.
After few minutes when I
could hear my own pulse, we finally got to see a sort of parking and a
handful of very basic wood type houses.
All in colourful shades of
pink, green, yellow and white. There was nobody there, nothing to
suggest that someone was living in them.
Anyway, I was fascinated
by the black hard rock desert around us. We are familiar enough with
volcanic surroundings, but here was somehow different. This was deep
black solid lava...and in front of us deep blue waves.
Beautiful sea shells on the nearest rocks and little tiny creatures running around them.
Only the ocean was sending loud waves to us, everything else was so unbelievable still.
Delighted
that we accomplished our journey plan, we are looking up searching for a
easier way of return to the main roads. I must say the whole coast
descending with the car took just a bit over an hour and a half. We knew
there is no space for turns or overtakings and the margins between car
and the coastal line edge was as little as my hand.
We had to try
something else, so we drive the car back till we saw another local path
going in the opposite direction. The relief that the road was a bit
more accessible had raised our optimism.
We start crossing a
banana plantation. It's beautiful and abundant, there are heavy green
bunches everywhere I look. We are keep driving and the plantation
doesn't seems to end. It's like a different world.
We stopped to
the first road junction wondering what way to choose. The GPS was still
not working, we didn't meet any other cars, but this day was so amazing
that we weren't to be on the rush. We get off to feel the nature, to
enjoy the sun and to look more at the scenery. In the peaceful
setting, I've seen a big orange rolling towards us. Then another one,
then I've seen so many more just few yards away from us, on the path we
were contemplating to take.
If I was thinking my day was special
by now, just imagine my expression looking up to huge orange trees,
avocado trees, lemon trees and clementine trees. This is for real? I am
dreaming or what?!
I feel like Alice in Wonderland. First I run to get some of fruits, to touch them, to make sure they are real.
Just
to an arm away, a beautiful mango tree is sending me definitely nuts!
Mango as well?! I take lots of pictures and genuinely feel this must be
like in paradise. Then I laid on my back under the orange trees wishing I
could stay like that forever, searching every shape of those perfect
fruits. The deep orange colour and the multitude of fruits are keeping
me unable to react. I want to jump around, to cuddle all those trees, to
shout that I'm the most lucky person to be there...but I still didn't
have enough of watching all the lights coming through the leaves. The
sun rays are putting in more magic, the quietness too. I am so happy, so
lucky, it's something that I will always remember and treasure. Thank
you La Palma.
It
didn't matter anymore the road, the car, how will get back...we had
sweet soft oranges with us, a couple of the most scented lemons I've
ever seen and a handful of healthy avocado. The mango was too beautiful
to take, I just loved looking at.
There are more memorable days
and places that I could tell you about...Puerto Naos is one of them.
There is an excellent beach here, the sand is beautifully black and the
sun makes it shiny as the warm rays are reflecting on it. The ocean is
calm today and the water is warm. A small breeze is swinging the palms
long leaves and the sky is azure without any clouds!
The sand is
so soft that we can see deep footprints everywhere. Very near to the
beach, there is a shack selling smoothies and cold drinks.
Kids are
running happily with ice cream, others are building up sand castles.. I
can hear Latino music in the background, but the best music is the laugh
of the kids.
La Palma it's alive, it's beautiful, La Palma has stole my heart.
This
special little island in the Atlantic have the sky lighten by millions
of stars in the night and it's blessed with a gorgeous blue sky in the
day. The green hills, the pine and laurel forests are keeping the
balance over the infinite blue ocean.
For all this reasons and more, I strongly recommend you to visit La Palma. I know it's going to leave a print on your heart.